Blocking

Please note before you use these instructions: every yarn and project behaves differently. These tips are shared in good faith, but blocking is always at your own risk. Hinchcraft can’t take responsibility for any mishaps - test on a swatch first if you’re unsure!

Tools you’ll need

• Blocking mats or a clean towel on a flat surface (foam mats are great)
• Rust-proof T-pins (or blocking combs) and optional blocking wires
• Measuring tape / ruler
• Two clean towels
• Basin or sink + a no-rinse wool wash (optional)
• Spray bottle with clean water
• Steamer or iron with a steam function (never touch the fabric with the iron)
• Optional: sock blockers, hat form, or plate/bowl for berets

Before you start (2 quick checks)

1. Identify the fibre.

• Wool/alpaca: loves wet or steam blocking.
• Superwash wool: stretches easily - pin to measurement, don’t over-stretch.
• Cotton/linen: benefits from firm wet blocking for drape and crisp edges.
• Silk/ mohair: gentle handling; pin carefully.
• Acrylic: use light steam hovering only (heat can permanently ruin the structure).

2. Measure your target size.
Have your schematic or desired dimensions handy. Blocking sets the final fit.

Method 1 - Wet Blocking (best all-rounder)

Great for most animal fibres, cotton, linen, and blended yarns.

1.       Soak. Fill a basin with cool to lukewarm water. Add a splash of wool wash if you like. Submerge the item fully for 15–20 minutes so fibres relax.

2.       Lift & support. Scoop the piece up with both hands so it doesn’t stretch under its own weight.

3.       Gently de-water. Squeeze (don’t wring). Lay the item on a towel, roll it up like a jelly roll, and press to remove excess water. Repeat with a second dry towel if needed—aim for damp, not dripping.

4.       Lay out. On your blocking mats, spread the piece roughly to shape.

5.       Pin to measurement. Use your measuring tape. 

• Straight edges: run blocking wires through the edge, then pin the wires.
• Curves/angles: use T-pins every few centimetres to avoid scallops.

6.       Refine shape. Check symmetry: measure left/right, top/bottom. Smooth fabric with flat hands.

7.       Let it dry completely. Air dry until bone-dry (can be 12–48 hours depending on thickness and humidity).

8.       Unpin. Lift gently. The piece should hold its new shape.

Method 2 - Steam Blocking (fast, very controlled)

Great for wool and blends; use caution with acrylic (hover only).

1.       Pin dry. Lay the dry item on mats and pin to your exact measurements.

2.       Create steam. Use a garment steamer, or an iron set to steam.

3.       Hover, don’t touch. Hold 2–5 cm (about 1–2 in) above the fabric. Move slowly so steam penetrates. Do not press the iron to the fabric—especially with acrylic or textured stitches.

4.       Pat and set. Lightly pat into place with your hand; avoid stretching beyond the pins.

5.       Cool & dry. Allow to cool and dry in place before unpinning.

Method 3 - Spray Blocking (gentle & tidy)

Nice for delicate fibres, colorwork, and quick refreshes.

1.       Pin dry to size.

2.       Mist evenly. Use a spray bottle until the fabric is uniformly damp.

3.       Smooth & check measurements.

4.       Air dry fully, then unpin.

Special cases & shapes

Lace shawls & points

• Thread blocking wires along straight edges. For points or scallops, place a pin at each point so they’re evenly spaced and sharp.
• Lace opens a lot—stop at your target dimensions to avoid over-stretching.

Sweaters & garments

• Block pieces before seaming for crisp edges and accurate seaming.
• After seaming, a light overall block evens the fabric. Lay the garment flat with shoulders supported so it doesn’t grow.

Socks

• Slip onto sock blockers while damp (from a wash or quick soak), smooth the fabric, and let dry.

Hats & berets

• Beanies: stuff lightly with a towel to keep the crown rounded as it dries.
• Berets/tams: stretch the damp crown over a dinner plate for a neat circle; let the band dry unstretched.

Granny squares & motifs

• Wet or spray block each square to the same size. Pin corners square; measure each side for uniformity.

Textured or cable fabrics

• Block gently to avoid flattening. For steam, hover higher and pat lightly.

Amigurumi

• Usually don’t block (it changes firmness). Spot steam only to tame fuzz or curl, holding far away.

Fibre-specific tips

• Non-superwash wool / alpaca: Blocks beautifully; wet or steam. Expect good memory.
• Superwash wool: Can grow. Pin to schematic, avoid tugging.
• Cotton / linen: Firms up with wet blocking; you can “true” edges nicely. May relax with wear; re-block as needed.
• Silk / mohair: Very little spring; handle gently and pin carefully to avoid over-lengthening.
• Acrylic: Use light hover steam or spray block. Never touch with a hot iron; direct heat can permanently collapse the fibres and change the texture/shine.

Dye & water safety

• If combining light and dark colours, test a swatch first. Use cool water and avoid long soaks if you suspect bleeding. 

Quick “which method do I use?” cheat sheet

• Lace shawl in wool → Wet block with wires + lots of pins.
• Colorwork yoke sweater → Spray block or gentle steam to preserve texture.
• Cotton top that needs crisp edges → Wet block and pin straight.
• Acrylic blanket curling at edges → Light hover steam or spray block; pin flat.

Troubleshooting

• Edges still wavy: Add more pins, use blocking wires, and check you’re pinning to the measurement (not beyond it in some spots).
• Grew too much (superwash/cotton): Re-soak, then re-block to smaller dimensions.
• Stubborn curl on stockinette: Try steam blocking after wet blocking, or add a border next time (rib/garter).
• Flattened cables: Re-wet and block with minimal tension; avoid steam contact.

Care & re-blocking

• Most items keep their shape until next wash. After laundering, repeat your preferred blocking method.
• Store folded (not hung) to prevent stretching, especially for heavy cotton or superwash garments.